Mountains, music, craft beer, eclectic food, and free spirits. Let me just start with this: if you haven’t been to Asheville before, I highly, highly recommend you go. Bring a family member or friend, or make it a solo trip like I did.
Asheville is what happens when a bunch of fun, creative, outdoorsy, open-minded people from all over descend on the Blue Ridge Mountains. Local businesses, creativity, and opportunities for adventure abound. The city has a warm, relaxed vibe, and people go to Asheville because they want to be there.
Today I’m taking the opportunity to share insights from my July 2017 adventures in what quickly became one of my favorite places in the world. I’ve been meaning to write about Asheville for a while now, and finally had the chance to go back and look at my journal from the trip.
Without further ado, I’d like to share my itinerary with you, or, How to Do a (Solo) Trip Right in a Really Cool Place:
Day 1: Arrive, Drive, Explore
I flew into Charlotte and rented a car. In the middle of my two-hour drive, I stopped in the small town of Saluda for lunch at a place called Crust and Kettle, which is part eatery, part shop selling local artists’ work. It was exactly the friendly, relaxed atmosphere I wanted after a morning of traveling since 6:00 a.m.
Once I arrived in Asheville and checked into my AirBnb, I walked downtown. I was staying in the Five Points neighborhood, which is full of charming craftsman-style homes. The sun was setting as I walked across the overpass into town, and a jazz quartet greeted me on Haywood Street. (I can’t make this stuff up.)
So immediately, I was smitten. After dim sum at Red Ginger, one of the many local independent restaurants, I meandered back to my AirBnb, and called it a night.
(If you want to read more about eating dinner alone in a restaurant and enjoying and appreciating your own company, check out my earlier post here.)
Day 2: Walking Tour of Asheville & Afternoon Chill Time Downtown
Bright and early, I headed downtown. Before my walking tour, I stopped at Early Girl Eatery for coffee and a delicious egg biscuit (which I topped with the mouth-watering local O’Yeah! hot sauce). Tour highlights included the art deco details of downtown, writer Thomas Wolfe’s home, and Pack Square Park.
The afternoon was devoted to moseying and coffee: Malaprop’s Bookstore (a local fixture), the Gourmet Chip Company (sweet potato + chocolate = decadence), and High Five Coffee. All local businesses, which is one of the things that makes Asheville really special.
(Yes, I know I’ve used “local” about a half dozen times already, but that’s the point.)
After a siesta, I went back into town for dinner just in time to catch the–get this–drum circle. I’m not kidding. It was really cool; a bunch of people get together each Friday night and jam, dancing like nobody’s watching. Fun, refreshing, and uplifting.
Day 3: Hiking in the Blue Ridge Mountains and Live Music
The Blue Ridge Hiking Co. is an awesome way to hike with experienced guides who know the best trails in the area. After a drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway, we spent about three hours out at Graveyard Fields. It was a mostly-overcast day, but the scenery was stunning.
In the afternoon, I headed downtown and made a beeline for French Broad Chocolates. I enjoyed a concoction called a Mudwrestler. It is as magical as it sounds, and I tried to replicate it immediately upon returning home. Local Pisgah Nitro Stout, espresso, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate sauce. (You’re welcome.)
Up next, I checked out the Shindig on the Green, held every Saturday night during the summer. Bluegrass musicians perform in Pack Square Park, and it’s a fun, family-friendly atmosphere. Again, I’m not making this stuff up.
Day 4: The Biltmore Estate and Kayaking on the French Broad River
The Vanderbilts built the Biltmore (whew! Try saying that five times fast) in the 1890s. It is exactly as ostentatious and gorgeous as you might imagine. The cost for admission is steep, but worth it if you’ve never been and intend to spend most of the day there. You can also come and go as you please with the day pass, which is a nice plus. While the house itself was beautiful, the surrounding gardens and landscape were hands-down my favorite part.
(For a fun take on the Biltmore, check out the YA Serafina book series by Asheville-based writer Robert Beatty.)
In the afternoon, tired of hanging out in the Victorian era, I took a spin through the River Arts district and headed over to the Asheville Outdoor Center for a leisurely seven-mile kayak down the French Broad River, which snakes past the Biltmore Estate.
At the end of the day, it was back to the Biltmore for a wine tasting and some decadently delicious pasta at one of the restaurants. The wine tasting was free as a part of my Biltmore day pass, but the dinner most definitely was not. (Worth it, though.)
Day 5: Doughnuts, Brews, and More Live Music
Since it was my last full day in Asheville, Day 5 was a hodgepodge of stuff I still wanted to do but hadn’t done yet. Vortex Doughnuts (vegan and delicious). Driving around to West Asheville and a few other spots just outside the city. Malaprops again. A sandwich at Mellow Mushroom, yet another of Asheville’s many vegetarian-friendly places.
And, perhaps most importantly: I could NOT leave Asheville without checking out a local brewery, so I headed to Bhramari, which my hiking guide and a girl at the Gourmet Chip Company had recommended to me. I went at a slower hour, so I had time to get good recommendations from the bartender about what to try, and a recommendation for live music to check out later that day.
As a result, I ended up at 5 Walnut Wine Bar to hear some great jazz/R&B music (Siamese Sound Club, check them out!), and had a couple of those great non-small-talk conversations with random people.
Day 6: Coffee To Go
I don’t really want to talk about this day all that much, since it’s the day I left. I grabbed coffee at Double D’s (named for the double decker bus that houses it, I should immediately clarify), and off I went to the airport.
I’m convinced there’s some kind of magic in the air there. Don’t believe me? Google “Asheville vortex.” In addition to the doughnut place, search hits will include mystical stuff about energy. Apparently it’s a thing. The hills are definitely alive, y’all. Even though some of it sounds a little hokey, I’m sure not going to contradict anyone about it after being there myself.
So, long story short? If you’re looking for a vacation spot where you can both slow down to appreciate the small things and do some lively, adventurous stuff, go. Can’t wait to compare notes.
Disclaimer: Nobody in Asheville paid me to write any of this stuff. That’s how much I love it.
Sounds like a great place to visit. Wow, an incredibly well planned trip!
Thank you! It was an incredible six days!
After spending a few wonderful days there, I have to agree, 100%.
A solo trip to Asheville sounds like it would be super peaceful. I have to give it a try sometime